Wednesday 27 November 2024
Queen Charlotte Track 2024
Over the last couple of weeks I did my annual South Island tramping trips. This year we started with the Queen Charlotte Track in the Marlborough Sounds, which I previously did in 2014.
Our group of 17 assembled in Picton on Friday 15 November, staying at the Tombstone Motel overnight. Most flew via Blenheim that day, but some family members and I took the train from Auckland on the 14th, stayed in Wellington overnight, and then took the ferry to Picton in the morning. The train is a lot slower and more expensive than flying, but less carbon intensive and more fun. It’s definitely worth taking at least once! We had great views of Mt Ruapehu and other North Island sights along the way. The ferry was excellent — marvellous views of the Sounds from the water, and we saw dolphins.
It was a fairly diverse group — old friends, new friends of friends, people connected through work and our church. Most of them were doing Queen Charlotte for the first time and we had some people doing their first overnight tramp — including my wife!
On the 16th we took a boat from Picton to the start of the track at Ship Cove with E-Ko Tours. They took some detours along the way so we saw dolphins, fur seals and lots of different kinds of birds — I highly recommend this operator, and it was a great way to kick off the walk. The weather was a bit drizzly but it cleared up almost as soon as we arrived in Ship Cove and we had great weather for the rest of the trip! I really thank God for that; I don’t much mind walking in the rain but my wife would have! We started by dumping our packs and visiting the waterfall beyond the north end of the beach. Then we doubled back and walked around the coast to Fourneaux Lodge for our first night. Along the way we stopped at Resolution Bay for lunch, where there is a small shop selling coffee and ice-cream, powered by its own miniature hydro dam.
We saw our first wekas at Ship Cove, and lots more on the rest of the trip in the sounds and also in Kahurangi National Park. These cheeky birds are great fun and for the first time that I can remember we saw a lot of cute fluffy weka chicks as well. They’re harmless but they did try to steal socks and jandals!
Staying at Fourneaux Lodge and other hotels along the way is a little surreal when you’re used to staying at huts. Our rooms were generally lovely and the food was generally excellent, albeit both are expensive — but you expect to pay for the location. They have mains electricity and good Wifi so you have the comforts of home while still being pretty isolated. Walking out of the hotel at the start of the day and walking into the next one is a great feeling.
On the 17th we walked from Fourneaux to Punga Cove Resort. That’s an easy walk of a bit over three hours, so once again I did Mt Stokes as a side track after we reached Punga Cove, the highest point in the Sounds. This time I had a few of my stalwart friends with me — five of us in all. Similar to when I did it 10 years ago, it took about seven hours. Unlike 10 years ago, on the way down I got serious cramp that had me screaming in agony, but fortunately I was able to hobble out to the road and then it didn’t trouble me on the road back to Punga Cove. It was worth repeating — once again there were amazing views of the Sounds, and we could just see Mt Taranaki over 200km away. We were tired and a bit sore at the end of it, but fortunately that cramp didn’t bother me again for the rest of the trip. It’s definitely taxing to do Mt Stokes on the same day as the walk to Punga Cove, so don’t do it unless you’re suitably fit.
On the 18th we walked to Portage Resort. This was the longest day on the regular track, about eight hours at a slow-ish pace, but not difficult. On this day one of my wife’s boots started to disintegrate, with the sole separating from the uppers. It’s not uncommon for boots that have been stored for many years without being used to fall apart a few days into a walk… I guess maybe the glue gradually deteriorates? My trusty duct-tape was able to hold it together for the rest of the trip — just!
On the 19th we walked to Te Mahia Bay Resort and had pretty much the whole afternoon to relax … many games of Bang! were played. On the 20th we walked out to Anikawa to be picked up by Marlborough Shuttles, one group heading to Blenheim and the other to Nelson to prepare for the next tramp. All the logistics went very smoothly.
Queen Charlotte Track is pretty but not spectacular (Mt Stokes aside) so more adventurous trampers may be disappointed. However, quality food and accommodation is a nice change and very appealing to many people! There aren’t many such options in New Zealand. (Ultimate Hikes’ Milford and Routeburn, and Hump Ridge, are the others that spring to mind.) Our group certainly enjoyed it very much.
